Sunday, 12 March 2017

A Rose by any name.... Part 2


As the cavalier poet Robert Herrick wrote:
‘The rose was sick and smiling died;
And (being to be sanctified)
About the bed there sighing stood
The sweet and flowery sisterhood.’

It’s a beautiful poem, and a perfect illustration of the more morbid side of the rose. Yet, even at their darkest and most morbid, roses never forgo their romance or beauty. Think of the showers of bright rose petals in Alma Tadema’s famous painting: the roses of Heliogabalous; who wouldn’t want to nuzzle their way deep under that fragrant shower? The Emperor’s swooning guests certainly seem un-bothered by their rather picturesque fate. Perhaps they simply appreciate Alma-Tadema’s attention to detail: each petal was, legend has it, painted from life and one can well believe it when one looks at the vivid, lightly veined petals which seem to almost pulsate with life in contrast to the emperors hapless victims, suffocated as much by their perfume it seems as by the weight of so many flowers.
Darker roses can be intoxicating and delicious; these are the roses which follow us into autumn and winter, whose sharp thorns puncture the snow and whose red petals blaze through a haze of falling snowflakes.
So, here is a brief introduction to my two favourite perfumes in a darker genre of rose. Two different sorts of deeper, darker, delicious rose.

If you desire an immortal rose with just a hint of the gothic and a large dose of romanticism then none could fit the bill better than Frederic Malle Une Rose. Tuber notes give this perfume the qualities of an earthy kiss and red wine entwined with the roses throughout Edouard Flechier’s composition give the whole perfume a velvety intensity that few perfumes can match. It’s an utterly unique and deeply memorable example of the perfumers art. You dab this on and you instantly feel as if you have been wrapped in a velvet cloak, as though you are about to sit down to a rich dinner of truffles and wine, as if you are about to dance the tango and the feeling is sensational.

A less earthy but equally warm, dark and intense rose is Hatria by Angela Ciampagna. This perfume is a sensationally delicious blend of warmth and spice. Cloves and caramel wrap around this rose and the most notable initial notes before the rose starts to come through in earnest were, for me at least, saffron and sandalwood. A beautiful combination, the saffron floats away, whilst the sandalwood retreats into the background.   It’s a courtesan’s kiss of a perfume, it would be fabulous on the legendary Cora Pearl. This also feels like the perfume which should be wafting among Heliogablous’s unfortunate guests. Perhaps, the reason for the mysterious smiles on their lips and that delicious sense they give off that this really is the best party they’ve ever attended.

Sunday, 26 February 2017

A Rose by any name... Part One.

With a single, poetic, flourish Shakespeare reminds us how beautiful the rose is, that was his talent.          The talent of all Roses it seems is to provide breathtaking beauty and romantic allegory. Yet the rose has many faces, many moods and every perfume which bears the name of rose reflects some different facet of the mythology of roses.
        “The Red rose breaths of passion 
          and the white rose breaths of love”
 As the poet John Boyle O’Reilly put it; although, in terms of perfumery that is a simplification too far.
       Because there are so many different facets of rose perfumery, I have decided to divide my post on rose perfumes into two and post the two halves over two weeks, In this, my first rose post, I want to review two of my current favourites of what one might call the romantic rose before exploring the genre of deliciously morbid rose scents next week.

     It may have something to do with the book I’m working on, whose title, taken from a poem by Robert Herrick, provides a constant reminder of the evocative nature of roses each time I open the document; or, it may simply be that Roses are hard to resist but I have been wearing a lot of rose perfumes lately. Especially the warm, evocative scents of summer roses in full bloom. Not the expensive, overly perfect roses piled high for Valentines day (I think, next weeks post might be a better place to delve into the symbolism of red roses on such a saints day) but the living, pulsating roses that still bear a trace of rain, sun and their own sharp thorns in their kisses.
                                                  Image via Wikimedia Commons.

    One of the most beautiful fragrances which I have discovered lately and which , for me, fits this genre is: Raw Silk and Red Roses from Sarah McCartney’s 4160 Tuesdays. On their site, the perfume is described as "A walk through a rose garden, with a touch of geranium, patchouli, musk and fruits." and that is just what the composition evokes for me; a garden on a late summer afternoon trailing, via an exquisite rose and gold sunset, into one of those perfect heavy blue evenings which only summer can paint. Cups of green tea, the rustle of a silk dress as it falls coolly around your skin, golden light in the sky and the roses shedding their scent are all evoked as notes of warm musk and sharp geranium unfold around an intense, perfect rose. At times it feels as if the rose is tearing it's way, dashingly, through it's wrapping of silk, ready to plant an intense kiss on ones lips. For me there's a little edge of promising, and very romantic, spiciness about the composition too,  I could bathe in this perfume quite happily and yet, fickle perfume lover that I am, I have been unfaithful to this rose with others.

     With my second romantic rose choice for instance. Lipstick Rose from Editions De Parfums Frederic Malle is a pure distillation of glamour. Naturally, it appealed to my love of vintage. Never without my own red lipstick I was enraptured by the soft, sweet scent of this perfume. Rose and violet top notes play beautifully together on a base that comes through deeply amber to my nose and keep the whole composition in tune with a delightful longevity. Inspired by the scent of perfumer Ralf Schweiger's mother's lipstick it weaves a familiar spell for anyone who has ever clicked open a powder compact or vanity case in a vintage shop (since the original smell fades with time, I have topped uo my vintage compacts interior with a light spritz of Lipstick Rose so that I can inhale it's beauty each time I refresh my make-up). It's a perfume which feel real and human because of it's cosmetic smell. It's never without the essence of the woman wearing the perfume, wearing the lipstick. Her smile bleeds through Cheshire cat like and makes the fragrance her own as surely as a lipstick signature on a mirror marks out her territory. I confess, when I wear Lipstick Rose on my skin, one spritz is never enough! If you love vintage, old movies, even satcks of brittle but still magnificent fashion magazines then Lipstick Rose may just be the perfume for you!
      Well, that my two favourite romantic roses reviewed; hopefully, I have put my passion for them across! Next week, there will be more from Malle and others as the rose grows a little gothic...

Wednesday, 4 January 2017

A scent of snow and pine...

Christmas may be receding into memory but the winter weather hasn't  left us yet, if anything it’s gotten colder out there so it is time, perhaps, for some scented indulgences to chime with the crispness of falling snow or warm us up with fire and spice we can wear close to our hearts.
I’ve picked out the six perfumes which most remind me of winter.
If you’re longing for the sharp crispness of snow brushing your face then I think La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens brilliantly captures that exquisite feeling.



Fille De Berlin is the most delicate snowflake of a perfume by which I do not mean that the perfume is light, although it is suitably subtle. No, I mean that from the first moment I smelt it, it reminded me of a winter’s day, two or three years ago when it began to snow whilst I was out shopping. Perfect crystal flakes danced down out of a sky suddenly radiant Madonna blue, flakes large enough that, when they settled on the dark sleeves of my coat, revealed each detail of their intricate crystalline structure without the need for a magnifying lens.
That is Fille de Berlin to me, delicate, intricate and the embodiment of snow. Its notes are simple and dazzlingly effective: rose and geranium layered over patchouli and honey. 
The other stand out snow perfume, in my opinion, has to be Floris’s Snow Rose which feels as if the frost has embraced a single bloom. Snow Rose starts off a little greener than Fille de Berlin and with vanilla rather than La Fille’s honey note providing the slight sweetness of winter air but with an equally crisp, fresh geranium note.
However, if you’ve seen too much of snow and it’s left you shivering you just might want to turn to a perfume that’s going to warm you up rather than bring in the weather then there are plenty of perfumes that fit the bill with their spicy warmth and smoky depths.
Annick Goutals Encens Flamboyant has all the sharp woodiness of an open fire conveyed in intense notes of incense alongside pepper, nutmeg and balsam fir. You can almost hear this perfume crackling invitingly as you curl up in your favourite chair. The pure perfume is stunning in its depth and longevity but the eau de parfume equals it for staying power and for sillage so that you can be sure that your blanket of winter warmth is following you wherever you go.
Equally reminiscent of winter to me is Coco by Chanel with its citrus and spice notes reminds me of the Christmas Pudding scene from Charles Dickens A Christmas Carol, “In half a minute Mrs Cratchit entered: flushed, but smiling proudly: with the pudding, like a speckled cannon ball, so hard and firm, blazing in half-a-quartern of ingnited brandy, and bedight with Christmas holly stuck in the top.” One can’t help but envy the skill with which Dickens conjures, in a few lines, a pudding one can almost smell, almost taste on the tip of your tongue! It’s also a perfume reminiscent of the clove studded oranges which perennially adorn the pages of lifestyle magazines in December as well as our own Christmas tree this year. Not entirely surprising as clove and Mandarin orange are both notes in Coco’s composition. Coco is a perfume which just invites compliments whenever you wear it so you’d better be prepared for people to ask you what you’re wearing pretty often (the appreciation of others is no real hardship though, is it).
I’m going to be a little naughty now because my next winter perfume choice is something a little rare but very special. If you are lucky enough to find a bottle in ebay, at a flea market, in a vintage store, anywhere in fact, then treasure it.
My fifth, and possibly favourite, winter perfume is: Winter Delice by Guerlain.
Like Encens Flamboyant, Winter Delice is a strong and sensual balsamic perfume bursting with the warm embrace of pine tree branches and resin but snow has settled on this Winter landscape, it’s chill breath just creeping in with a note of vanilla (always so good at conjuring snow) and sugar. It’s such a rich perfume that it feels like it demands you acquire a sleigh and velvet cloak at once. Although I happen to think that you can get away with this perfume even when you are not all dresses up; in a jumper (sweater) and jeans you could use a few spray of Winter Delice to feign a sportive walk in the woods. Or wear it all dressed up and unleash your inner Snow Queen.   


Now, I have two last, very indulgent, winter perfume suggestion: if you’re hungering after the indulgent desserts and sweets of Christmas still but have a New Year resolution you’d like to keep then L’Artisan Perfumers Traversee du Bosphore should help to assuage the cravings of a sweet tooth. It’s notes of nougat, sugar, honey, pistachio, red apple and spices would make as beautiful an ice cream as they do a perfume! Also worth trying if you crave the sweetness of Christmas dessert with a hint of snow is Coudray's Vanille et Coco which smells exactly as it's name suggests and is very charming.
Well, those are my winter perfume choices, I hope you've seen something you like, Or at least something which feels like winter to you. 
I wish you all a warm and beautifully perfumed winter!        

Friday, 2 December 2016

The Sleeper Part 2

Chapter One
Beneath blue silk awnings a menagerie whirrs into life. Velvet coated leopards pad behind screens of un-wilting silver trees and do not disturb in the least the enamelled, jewel eyed peacocks who fan their feathers and dance around each other. Still the band plays on their sightless polished eyes staring at their music sheets, their instruments plucked and pressed in precise movements intended to bring nothing more than the appropriate climax. Merciless, no sooner have they finished than they return to the beginning. These are the achievements of an age of clockwork and steam (see how realistic the leopard’s moist breath is). They will certainly be a highlight of the ice fair. Every year, Montenoix holds its ice fair because every year the river through the capital and the little lake which adjoins the river freeze solid. Perhaps one day the river will fail to freeze but this seems unlikely. The Weather here obeys its own laws. No one can remember the first fair but the history books speak of a brave and enterprising pie maker who crept out onto the ice one morning and set out his stall. Nervously, slipping in their clogs, his customers came and continued to come. They were emboldened by pie and, to a far greater extent, by a barrel of good strong ale dragged out by the local bar keeper. They began to craft makeshift sleds and skates, lit braziers and talked in the dark blue hours of twilight about how they would do this again next year if the waters froze. Unfortunately, although history clings to this charming story the names have been forgotten. They vanish out of sight like pennies slipping through cracks in the ice never to be seen again. Such is the way with the lives of peasants. Someone should write a book about this. No matter, we are with Camille now and Camille’s principal concern is whether or not her clockwork menagerie will sell. There are certainly many boastful dandies who might believe such lifelike creature to be the perfect garnish to a banquet or a ball. The question is: can they be persuaded to part with real gold to make their vision a reality?
The only person she knows for certain will visit her pavilion is her brother Jon. She also knows for certain that he has not got any money. He is after all but a humble librarian. Albeit, a librarian to a noble family. Sadly, by his account not one likely to be swayed by such outré art as she has produced.

‘No one will know,’ Jon says as he helps Louis down from the cab they rented. ‘We will see my sister’s clockwork and then we shall vanish into the crowds.’
‘Yes.’ Louis said. How he longs already to vanish. How he longs for the strangest things. He longs to run away, with Jon, into the woods and grow a pelt like a fox. Freed from all convention they can sleep out the winter in a deep den underground. But he takes Jon’s arm, holds it tight as they wind their way to Camille’s pavilion. He is dazzled as they step in. Against his will, for he would rather have had an excuse to slip away, he stands entranced by a cage of flapping calling exotic birds as Jon goes to make his greetings to his sister. It seems inappropriate now for Louis to introduce himself. How would he describe their relationship to her? He should think of some clever and cunning pseudonym, the kind a romantic heroine might have, something long and elegant. He toys with the idea of sweeping in clad in a flowing black cape and silken mask. He would sweep off the mask as he takes his hostess (or indeed his hosts) hand. Showering kisses upon the fingers as he introduces himself as La Comte Mystere. The brush of a Leopard against his leg and the brief shock of such intimacy with a predator bring him back to his senses. He really must go to the theatre less often it is utterly clouding his senses but there are times when he would rather live in a world of dreams. The pavilion is filling up now. Little crowds of people knot around the birdcages; women in feather plumage which seems somehow less magnificent than its imitation and men in fur collared coats which merge with the moving animals. There is a general clamour of excitement as children dare each other to pet the big cats. Little hands fly out, little cries of delight are heard then the hands plunge back into the safety of gloves and pockets.
The sound of trumpets cuts through the air. People jump back and Louis feels Jon’s hand in his again gently tugging him back into the shadows. A leather clad finger presses to his lips and demands his silence. 
Here comes the Princess Amandine stepping down from her carriage in a fanfare of trumpets and a cloud of heady oriental perfume. Her long velvet train ripples over the ice. The colour is bright, vivid blue as dazzling as a sapphire, seeming to twinkle with as many facets. She looks as if she has been carved out of the ice. Her guards follow after her, hands poised on their glittering swords, heels clicked together. They are toy soldiers but not quite so uniform. Look a little more closely and one might see how the captain inclines more towards his Princess, how his eyes pass over her as if contemplating something truly remarkable. Look more closely at the Princess herself and one would see how little she sleeps. Her eyes are tired; her skin glistens a little less beneath them. She tries to hide this. She is here to do her duty for it is her job to open this fair officially as she does every year. One swift snick of the scissors a few words upon the beauty of the season (how closely this land is allied with winter) and how wonderful the invention of these stalls will be. Now she moves amongst them her duty done but her curiosity not yet satisfied. It would be inaccurate to say that she is only human but she is by no means immune to boredom. So she visits each pavilion in turn. She lingers when she reaches Camille’s fantastical animals. She pauses to examine, at a proximity which would make a mortal nervous, the musicians. She looks at their fingers upon the keys of their pianos, she looks at their lips upon the lips of flutes, she examines their mother of pearl fingernails and their polished glass eyes, and she touches their hair made from delicate strands of silk, finer and glossier than any head of human hair.
Their chests seem to her to move as if they conceal hearts and surely their velvet upholstered lips are made for kissing? What is a human being? Not just the tangle one sees on a surgeons table surely. Can a thing be made to be human? She has never thought of this before.  Now it seems quite possible to Amandine that she has missed something rather obvious. If fate will not bring her brother’s true love to her door then why should she not build him or her within the hall? A suitor already there, perfectly tailored to suit the specifications of her brother’s heart. Ah, but how to know those? No matter, she will cross that bridge when she comes to it.
              
‘Madam, would you come with me?’ Camille looks up from the snake she is winding and sees a Guardsman standing over her. He has thick sideburns which border upon the English fashion for mutton chops and steel coloured eyes. His tall hard hat is tucked under his arm. She lets the snake go and it writhes from her hands onto the floor, vanishing off amongst the fair goers skirts. He will give someone a shock like that.
‘Why?’ Camille has never done what she is asked to do without first asking her own questions.
‘The Princess,’ here the Guard pauses to inhale deeply and clicks his heels together loudly, ‘would like to speak with you.’
‘What about?’ Camille asks. The guard looks utterly horrified at this. He plucks at the plume on his helmet.
‘That is not for me to know.’
‘Very well then, so who are you? I suppose that is a question you can answer?’
‘Certainly,’ he says, ‘I am Captain Albert San Valentine.’
‘What an elaborate name.’
‘It was my father’s name and his fathers and his father’s before him.’ The Captain says with a glimmer of pride.
‘And I take it that if you have a son you will also call him Albert san Valentine?’ Camille says as she puts on her coat and adjusts her fur hat on top of her elaborate coiffure.
‘I have not thought of the day I have a son.’ The Captain sighs. ‘However, were I to have a son I think it is high time that we added a new name to the family tree. It is becoming rather hard to read.’   
   
The captain of the Guard in his stiff uniform twined and buttoned with gold leads her across the ice. He offers her his arm from time to time in a stiff show of chivalry. They are heading towards a vast carriage the colour of summer violets. The coat of arms painted beneath the silk curtained window tells Camille at once whose carriage this is. A shiver runs up her back. The lives of Clockmakers and Princesses usually do not cross. Has she offended her sovereign with her wind up menagerie? The guard knocks on the window, a little too softly at first and then with flushed cheeks he knocks a little harder. The window is lowered and from the depths of the carriage the Princess leans forward. She rests her gloved hand on the sill. She smiles very briefly before the smile is dashed from her face by a strange twist of regret. Papers spill from the Princess’s lap down into the body off the carriage like autumn leaves from a tree.
‘You are the clockmaker who made the peacocks and the violinist?’ The Princess asks. ‘They tell me you are but I would have you say it yourself.’
‘Yes, I am the clockmaker.’ Camille says.
‘And do you believe that you can fashion anything out of clockwork?’
‘Most things, yes, your highness, I believe that I can.’
‘How real might they be?’ the Princess asked. ‘I saw that your automata seemed to breathe. They seemed to smile at times but still their eyes were silent. Could you make them more alive than they are now?’
‘With time.’ Camille said. She had considered the problem of thought before. She had created things which seemed to think but she had destroyed them all.
 ‘Time.’ The Princess sighed. ‘Well, I have waited long enough what is another dozen years or a dozen more on top of a hundred years.’
‘I am not sure what you are asking of me, your highness?’ Camille said.
‘I am not sure myself. Not entirely. The idea has only just entered my mind as I looked around your pavilion. I saw, I think the solution to a question which I have long asked myself.’ There is a long pause. ‘Would you accept a commission from me, madam? There will be no penalty if my hopes proof foolish. They often have before.’
How could one say no to such an offer?
‘Yes, your Highness.’ Camille said. She moved to kiss the Princesses hand but her gesture was waved away.
‘There is no need. It is a hand like any other it has done good and it has done bad but I have never known it to do those who kiss it the least good or evil either way. You should know, if you work for me, that I am not actually a stamp.’
Though Camille thought, now that she saw the Princess up close, the stamp captured a remarkable likeness but not the warmth or brightness or those eyes. It was almost as if a fever burned through them.  
‘I will send a carriage for you tomorrow. You do not need to tell me your address. I know where every one of my subjects is.’ He fingers squeeze Camille’s fingers. The gesture is strangely human and undignified but it makes her easier to like. ‘I thank you.’
 The carriage rattles off up the bank; the plumed black horses that draw it straining up the incline with foggy snorts. The Guards come jogging after the carriage to push its wheels free before they freeze to the spot.
Camille turns and makes her own way back across the ice. Skaters were beginning to cut patterns and swirls amongst the tents. Tiny female Domovoi, less often seen than their men folk, wrapped in rose printed shawls and thick felted skirts have pulled a painted sledge (its pattern matching their shawls exactly) bearing great silver samovars into the midst of the crowd . They are serving tea in cups and saucers none of which match, all of which are patterned with roses. They are charitable to those who look too poor to pay the penny price of a cup but woe betides those who can pay but hope to get something for nothing. Small hands slap and claw at them, strange curses in a tongue most do not understand rain down on them till they are forced to pay, blood staining the coins in their hands. Soon the pockets of the Domovoi’s white starched aprons are bulging with coins. Not greedy creatures themselves they do not even taste the tea they serve but from time to time, when unobserved, they take swift, ecstatic sips from the milk urn. Their tea is marvellous, lightly spiced and sweet. Camille pauses for a cup. Sits on one of the benches hewn from logs and considers the Princesses proposition. She has not yet been told what she is expected to make. She knows very little about the Princess save what everyone knows from reading the Saturday illustrated papers; she is as good a ruler as they have ever had but then, as she has ruled for a hundred years or more there is no one who can recall a time before her. She is beautiful and sophisticated but then she should be should she not when her mother was the most beautiful of the fae and her great, great grandmother was a mermaid of such renown that there are still stories told about her. There are also myths told about the Princess, that she will vanish into thin air someday as her mother did before her and what will they do then with no clear heir to take over the country? There are myths that her brother does indeed lie in a deep sleep somewhere in the palace and will wake who knows when. Though, ideally he would wake when she vanishes and then they will all be saved.

Out of the corner of her eye as she stands she thinks she sees her brother and the young man who accompanied him gliding along on skates. Their arms are twined about each other’s waists and their heads rest upon each other’s shoulders. She smiles for them. How very like Jon it is that he should forget to tell her a little thing like his being in love.

Thursday, 1 December 2016

The Sleeper. Part One

Prologue
Silver snowflakes graze the gilded curves of the old Baroque palace where the Prince still slumbers, dreaming a century of dreams whilst his sister rules in his place. She is twice the Prince, so the people say, than any Prince who came before her. Still she has an unquiet mind. Even now in the dead of night, she walks the halls and galleries trying discover, amidst her sea of thoughts, the secret which will wake her brother for it is she who set him sleeping. Oh, but for the best of reasons. She is possessed of magic more instinctive than skilled. The books she has read and the witches she consulted are in complete agreement; he will only be awakened by a true lovers kiss. Sadly she has found that his true love is slow in coming.
She pauses at the long windows of the hall of glass now and draws the furs she wears high around her golden neck. Her dark hair tumbles like a waterfall and merges with the furs in one great breathing swathe of silken spears.
Still the snow falls. No longer just a few dancing flakes the snow grows thicker all the time. In the house of the Duc Du Murelle, the Duc’s brother Louis creeps from his bed. He shivers in his light silk night robe but he does not pause to wrap himself against the cold. His heart beats like a bird at his ribs as he tiptoes down the passageway, down the great spiral staircase. He is spurred on by feelings which transcend the momentary discomforts of cold. A few mice that have clawed their way through the rotten skirting boards of the kitchen seeking sanctuary from the snow scatter as he approaches. From the shadow of the clock, they watch him with their dark bead eyes. It is just striking midnight. Although it should be noted that this clock may not be accurate as it is wound so irregularly.  Nevertheless, midnight or not it is a magical hour. Louis finds his way through the labyrinth of the library without light, just by the touch of the volumes against his fingers. He sees a flicker of golden candlelight ahead. His lover, the librarian Jon, is waiting for him. He has scattered rose petals on the pillows of his bed. Who knows where he found rose petals on a night like this. The cold has chilled so many roses; frozen them like elaborate glass ornaments. One brush of the finger and they will shatter and fall in a shower of confetti knives.
How warmly these two lovers’ lips touch sharing the flavours of wine and coffee and sleep. Louis knows that, as the Duc’s younger brother, should his love be discovered he will be disowned, and dishonoured. A lowly librarian people will say, can you imagine it? Louis does not care. Love holds his heart more strongly than can be imagined and his only thought as his hands embrace the scarred flesh of his love is contentment.
Still the snow falls. As it does so it wraps conspiratorial fingers of silence around the library.
Still the snow falls and fills the streets of the old town. Wood frames sag and lunge out over stalls and shop fronts in alleyways built to accommodate butchers and bakers amidst a labyrinth of red brick and faded play bills. Where the snow is thickest the only markers of a street lying beneath come in the form of bottle necks and battered hats pushed hard against the wall. Does the snow hide some drunken tragedy? Only the thaw will tell. Until then people will conspire not to see as they hurry past. For now the winter provokes that strange reaction, eat, drink and be very merry. Hold back the cold and the darkness with cheer. Fissures of golden light spill out onto the snow here and there. Shadows dance and sway behind the drawn shades of bar rooms. Notes of music come and go like dream snatches.
 Snow falls at the doorstep of the clock makers shop and greys a little from the sooty footprints which have accumulated there. The wind blows and the lantern above the doorway swings on its chain giving out a strange funereal creaking.
The clockmaker, Camille, still works. Though it is late, she sits by the fire. Tiny cogs spread glinting on the dark blue of her skirts. It is not a clock upon which she works now. All the clocks are finished and set on their shelves. They all tick at once, in one voice they cry out the hours with a thousand chimes. Once, twice, again, again, twelve times they cry. It is definitely midnight now for the clockmakers clocks are, without doubt, accurate; that is why they sell so well. The witching hour truly has arrived; the hour when spirits creep and tug the corners of the night. In the far off sea a silvery tail lashes the waves and laughter cries out, unseen and unheard. Translucent figures pass each other in the streets and cellars dancing ancient minuets around the dust laden barrels and the forgotten trunks. The dancers are still as nimble as ever and always will be so long as they glide back to their tombs before dawn cracks the horizon.
The clockmaker pauses in her work. The tiny tools of her trade in her hands, oil stains on her fingers. Is that a mouse she hears tiptoeing behind the wall, bedding down in the darkness? No doubt it is. The mice are not afraid of the ghosts. They are used to them. They are no longer disturbed by their revels. She should go to bed herself. She makes one last alteration so slight another might not even notice it but she is a magician of her trade. Besides precision is wanted here for this is not a clock. This project is her dream, her life. She has worked on it every evening since the idea first came to her as a girl. She was already in love with clockwork then. She fashioned toys that ran about the house on little metal wheels or ground out tinny tunes. Marvellous things which never seemed to wind down (ah the magic of a child’s memories where time is not itself at all). Now her great work is nearing completion. Ready, in fact, to be unveiled to a paying public. It is worth considering that the mouse behind the skirting board may not be a thing of flesh and blood at all but one of her first creations. Is this a wind up mouse that went tearing off into the darkest recesses of her workroom? Did it escape into the mechanical wild? In a few months it may have picked up the quirks of its living fellows along with their scent. Now accepted and indistinguishable from its fellows (for they have conspired to ignore the key which sticks from its back) it has begun a new life with a new family. Its brood of infants only differentiated from the others by a curious clicking noise when they turn their heads or stretch their legs and a tendency to choke hungry cats to death.  What would such a creature survive and thrive upon? Scraps of iron and shavings of steel perhaps?
The snow is still falling as the clock maker climbs the stairs. For a few minutes she watches from the window which looks out over the courtyard between shops. Everything is so still. A slender fire bright cat pads across the snow leaving tiny heart shaped marks.

Tomorrow, the world will be unrecognizable; a dream world beneath which the familiar will slumber.  At least, it will be fitting weather for an ice fair.

Thursday, 24 November 2016

Perfume du jour: Zoologist's Beaver

The best way I can describe this post is to say that it is a perfume review and a small essay on writing rolled into one, hopefully harmonious piece.
Perfume has strange and wonderful powers, this week I un-stoppered a vial of perfume whose deep, sharp notes inspired me to write not only a review but a little literary musing. It just so happened that when I sniffed this particular perfume for the first time I was writing a historical short story and treading carefully to avoid that great pitfall in writing the past: failing to imagine how different the past really was. I do not mean only the physical difference between horse drawn carriages and motorized cars, washing your clothes in a creak or having a washing machine to hand. What I was thinking of was the mental landscape of living within the past. The opening lines of Hartley’s "The Go Between" may have become a cliche but a note of truth rings there:  the past is a strange place to imagine let alone to visit, It’s customs are not our own, it’s conventions are not our own and for every familiarity there lie in wait a thousand mysteries.
From our vantage point in the twenty first century, however, the behaviors of the past can seem baffling. Not only the broad sweeps of politics and policy but the tiny details. We now know that most people in Medieval times woke during the night. Very probably they woke due to the extreme cold but gradually they came to see safety in these nocturnal interruptions; the midnight hour was the witching hour and a wakeful household was also a vigilant household when witches danced.
These days, the fortunate majority of us sleep through the night, insulated from such biting cold by walls stronger than wattle and daub and witches have become just another Halloween costume slipped on to provide a vicarious thrill. However, if you want to write about the medieval world you need to take these facts into account just as you will need to give the fantastical figures on the margins of maps more than a cursory glance. Omnipods, sea serpents and wolf heads are more than mere decoration they were genuine fears lying just beyond the horizon. The skies were full of ships too, their inhabitants unable to breath earth’s rich air whilst their anchors occasionally caught against the impediments of barns and church towers.
Marina Warner points out in her book, ‘From the Beast to the Blond’ that 17th century fairy tales of wolves and bears were far more terrifying to their original audiences, no matter how regal, because they truly inhabited a world where one wrong turn in the woods could lead you into the jaws of a waiting wolf. Now, the wolves are long gone and so has the visceral fear of them. If we wish to recreate the fear, we often end up re-imagining what it means to encounter a “wolf”.
This is not to say that there was not amusement to be found in fairy tales from their first readings onward, but historical methods for mitigating the fear factor might prove unpalatable to a modern writer. At one court performance for Louis XIV scripted my Moliere, Warner tells how dancing bears from the court menagerie were used, a practice we shiver at now for it’s savage mistreatment of animals but which never gave those audiences a second thought.
The art of historical imagination can be just as difficult when one turns to perfumes.
When we think of the odours of the past we immediately conjour the odours we find most displeasing now, the fecal scents of open drains and unwashed bodies and we wonder how they could bear not only to be around these but how they could possibly hope to cover them with perfumes. How, we wonder, could they even smell the perfumes they wore?  Alas we imagine some light floral akin to the delicate fragrances that fill up our own well lit department stores forgetting how powerful and rich the perfumes of choice a few hundred years ago would have been.
There was as much of the animal on the dressing tables of histories great beauties as there was on their dining tables. Castoreum, civet and musk. The animal kingdoms scent glands of display and seduction were being put to use by Casanova’s and Du Barrys with similar results. Ambergris, the pungent sea washed product of Whales stomach discomforts was sprinkled liberally on bodies and into food (Charles II liked to use a little Ambergris as a breakfast garnish) There are certainly methods for olfactory archaeology  since so many of the great perfume houses (Floris, Penhaligons and Guerlain for instance) started in the nineteenth century. You could start with a few classics like Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet (used to such perfect effect in Essie Fox’s The Somnambulist) or Guerlain’s Jicky. However, reformulation has changed these perfumes a great deal over the intervening centuries. Oscar Wilde’s beloved Malmaison by Floris returned briefly a few years ago but is far removed from the volatile natural oriental he would have dabbed on in the mornings.
In any case, it was a powerful sensory experience of luxury that I was struggling to convey when I un-stoppered Zoologist perfumes beautiful, Beaver.
For a second after the first spritz, the scent of this perfume is arresting. It’s warm and bitter, animal and unashamed. However, after a few seconds of olfactory adjustment, a sniff of my wrist bought a smile to my lips.
This was the perfumed key I had been seeking into the boudoir of my protagonist. This is the bitter post hunt perfume, the scent wafting up from a courtiers jabot as you lean in to whisper a few words of gossip. It’s pungent but whilst that could prove overwhelming I found that I liked the smell.
It may not be for the faint hearted but who wants to be fainted hearted when it comes to perfume?
It’s sharp, clear notes of fresh air and citrus serve beautifully to strengthen and refine the powerful hits of musk and castoreum (what else in a perfume called Beaver?) whilst the smoke and undergrowth create a rich imagined backdrop to the perfume story playing out around them. The cold winter air has just been shut out of the party as the fire rises in the hearth and the seduction begins.
Everything I wanted to convey fell into place when I breathed in this perfume, it’s very style of perfume story telling as utterly modern as it’s notes were refreshingly historical. I recommend it, to those trying to recapture the past or find something a little different.

Monday, 31 October 2016

The perfumed costume...

All Hallows eve is upon us.
Tread not at crossroads tonight but remember to leave out milk for the spirits (and the witches cats).  Scry your fortune in a looking glass but beware what the future may hold!
Remember too that the most important decision of Halloween is: what to wear.
I don’t mean costumes; although, feel free to indulge yourselves as much as you like in the revelry of masking and disguise.
Personally, I favour a costume of velvet and black lace for myself; Vampirella turned up to maximum, Morticia Adams and Angela Carter’s “The Lady of the House of Love” going all Miss Haversham in her wedding dress and sunglasses.
No, I digress, I mean perfumes. Those olfactory statements written in molecules that say so much about us, or about the character we’re acting out on any given day. Whatever your Halloween costumes is, it's just begging to be taken to new heights by the addition of the right perfumes. So, I thought I'd take a little look at a few of the options.
Today, my perfume poison of choice is an old favourite: Ambre Fétiche perfume by Annick Goutal. I’ve raved about this perfume often on Facebook but only because I love it so.
Ambre Fétiche is all the rich, sensual and dark scents of winter and antiquity. No one ever loved antiquity more than the immortal. In his notes for a stage version of Dracula reproduced in Christopher Frayling’s book, “Vampyres” Stoker suggests these creatures of the night can only be moved by artifacts which pre-date them whilst the gramophone and telephone leave them cold.
It's also an intensely seductive perfume with it's notes of incense, amber, benzoin and deep heart of leather and patchouli.  In pure perfume form it's a heavy veil of fragrance with (appropriately) impressive longevity.
If you want to amp up the intensity and the seduction then you could add a light spray of Demeter’s Musk over the top although I confess to finding their musk a little coy when it could be wicked. Then again, what could be more appropriate than than a spritz from a perfume house which shares it’s name with the very ship which bought Dracula to Whitby?
If you’re looking for a Vampiric perfume to finish off your costume then don’t forget too that The Clarimond Project (into whose archives I’ve only recently, and with great pleasure, begun to dip) has given us all sorts of olfactory evocations of that beautiful Vamps story.
As for that most famous of Transylvania Vampires, I have a feeling that the Count (especially Gary Oldman’s tormented, lovesick hero)  would probably wear Blood Concept O Cruel Incense with all it’s delicious connotations.
Of course Blood Concept might work for those hoping to emulate Mary Shelley’s Dr Frankenstein too although not if you’re taking inspiration from the Dr’s creation as I fancy Adam, with his refined taste in literature, would reach for a seriously refined and literary perfume. Perhaps De Profundis from Serge Lutens would appeal to Adam? If unsure, he could always split a bottle with Dorian Gray who I’m sure would lap it up.
But then, I can imagine Dorian that great lover of perfume experimenting with all manner of modern perfumes. Etat Libre d’Orange’s new release Attaquer la Soliel Marquise De Sade might have arrived on his dressing table as a gift from Lord Henry Wooton the one man in London who knows Dorian and his sins so well.  There may even be a few bottles of more innocent perfumes like Penhaligon’s Elizabethan Rose pushed to the back of that same dressing table, gifts from poor Basil Haywood whose tragedy was to see the best in Dorian. Do those bottles still prompt the odd tear to fall from painted eyes I wonder?
I'm afraid my attempts to scent Jekyll and Hyde have failed, they simply cannot, would not agree on a perfume or even a genre of perfume. But that's the danger of having two people share one body I suppose...
However, I can suggest one dark, intense perfume for every fiend and friend alike (especially those on a budget): Brocard's Queen of Spades Modern, it's licorice and Cherry and jet black juice are perfect and what a pretty bottle.
Well, I shall leave you now, for me and for many others, Halloween is but the prelude for something far more terrifying: NaNoWriMo. Yes, for only the second year I’ll be endeavouring to turn out the first draft of a novel in just 30 days…